Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grape varieties still widely grown, and one of the hardest to get right. When it works, it makes reds of real finesse: light in colour, generous in scent and silky to drink. It suits anyone who prefers elegance to power, and it makes a great excuse for a weekend in eastern France.
What it tastes like
Young Pinot Noir smells of red cherry, raspberry and strawberry, often with a floral edge. With age it moves towards forest floor, mushroom and game. The body is light to medium, the acidity fresh and the tannins soft. You can usually see through a glass of it.
The grape has thin skins and buds early, so it needs a cool climate and careful growers. Too much heat and it turns jammy. Too little and it tastes green. That sensitivity is also why it shows its place so clearly. Two vineyards a few hundred metres apart can make noticeably different wines.
Where it grows in Europe
Burgundy, France
Pinot Noir’s home. The Côte d’Or is a narrow strip of slopes south of Dijon, split into the Côte de Nuits in the north and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Villages such as Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, Pommard and Volnay are household names. The individual vineyard plots, the Climats of Burgundy, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Wines are labelled by appellation, from regional Bourgogne up to Village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru.
Champagne, France
Most people don’t realise how much Pinot Noir goes into Champagne. Alongside Meunier and Chardonnay, it gives the wine body and red-fruit depth, especially from the Montagne de Reims. Blanc de noirs Champagne is made only from black grapes.
Alsace, France
The only red grape in Alsace. Expect light, fragrant styles that are good chilled with tarte flambée.
Germany
Known here as Spätburgunder, it’s the country’s leading red. Baden in the south-west and the small, steep Ahr valley make some of the best.
Elsewhere
Switzerland grows it widely, Austria makes fine examples, and Italy’s Alto Adige calls it Pinot Nero. England’s sparkling wine industry also relies on it.
What to eat with it
Pinot Noir is one of the most flexible food wines going.
- Boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin: the Burgundian classics, often cooked with the wine itself.
- Roast duck or game birds: the red fruit and soft tannin are a natural match.
- Mushroom dishes: earthy, older Pinot meets earthy food.
- Salmon or tuna: one of the few reds that works with richer fish.
Tip: Pick a wide-bowled glass and serve it slightly cool. Pinot’s appeal is in its scent, and warmth flattens it.
Where to taste it on a weekend
Base yourself in Beaune. It’s the wine capital of Burgundy, compact enough to walk, and sits in the middle of the Côte d’Or. Dijon has fast trains from Paris and is about half an hour from Beaune by road or local train.
- Day 1: Explore Beaune’s old town and its cellars, then drive or cycle south through Pommard, Volnay and Meursault. Burgundy has well-marked cycle paths through the vines.
- Day 2: Head north along the Route des Grands Crus towards Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin, finishing in Dijon.
The Cité des Climats et vins de Bourgogne, with sites in Beaune, Mâcon and Chablis, is a good first stop to get your bearings. Many top domaines are small family affairs that don’t open to the public, so book tastings ahead or go through négociant houses and village cellars in Beaune.
Tip: Visiting in late autumn or winter? The vines are bare, but cellars are quieter and growers have more time to talk.
For broader inspiration, see the best wine regions in Europe. If you want to compare Pinot with Bordeaux’s blends, read Bordeaux: the wine and the region. Fancy a Paris stop on the way? Try where to eat in Paris, and check this weekend for current event picks.
FAQ
Is Burgundy red always Pinot Noir?
Red wine from the Côte d’Or is almost always Pinot Noir. In Beaujolais, at the southern end of greater Burgundy, the red grape is Gamay.
What does Spätburgunder mean?
It’s the German name for Pinot Noir. The style is usually light, fresh and red-fruited, though top producers make deeper versions.
Should Pinot Noir be chilled?
Lightly. Around cellar temperature, cooler than a typical room, keeps the fruit fresh and the scent lifted.
Is there Pinot Noir in Champagne?
Yes. It’s one of the three main Champagne grapes, alongside Meunier and Chardonnay.
